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To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them. In The Swatch World Journal, a Wall Street Journal clone, they are also kept informed about major collectors like an year-old German collector who has amassed all models and "doesn't smoke, doesn't drink and is very conscientious about his schoolwork. View on timesmachine. At first it seemed accidental. Swatchissimo has its seamier side. Swatch was credited with wresting dominance in inexpensive watches from Far East; today it is the fastest-selling model in watch history. Swatch collecting was made official in Europe when the company organized an international collectors' club. Because the company changes its designs each season, many standard Swatches also become collectible. Before the European Swatchissimo and Swatchomania auctions. Style Fueling A Frenzy: Swatch. Occasionally the digitization process introduces transcription errors or other problems; we are continuing to work to improve these archived versions. It wasn't like this when the first watch rolled off the line, about million Swatches ago. Last August, Mr. The scene at the Swatch counter at Macy's Herald Square last week resembled the Mercantile Exchange in Chicago, only instead of pork bellies, people were waving Eurocards, speaking Italian and yelling, "Scuba? Like many so afflicted, Ms. The first Swatch auction -- 99 Swatches made between and provided by the company -- was held by Sotheby's in September in Milan, Italy. Call it crazy. Surface pattern and decoration changed constantly, but the watch stayed the same, enabling the company to sell 10 versions of what was essentially the same thing. Except that they want one. But would he do it? Themes drawn from current cultural events and cryptic messages embedded in the designs appealed to young people. Authorized dealers uniformly sell at the retail prices the company suggests. Kiki Picasso is the pseudonym of the watch's designer, Christian Chapiron, a member of the Parisian art group Bazooka. The "uncontrollable thirst for Swatch collectibles," as a Swatch press release describes it, is now a finely oiled, engineered machine, driven by consumers but fueled by the company. Limited edition Swatch watches are now being issued for many special occasions, be it Easter, the th anniversary of the French Revolution or United Nations Earth Summit. Bottone, with a band bedizened with colorful buttons, came in its own sewing kit. Even bolder was the company's decision to start producing what it calls specials, which took an inchoate desire for collecting and cinched it into a knot. To make things more equitable for all collectors, Mr. Buhl's ex-wife in Geneva, a very good friend and serious Swatch collector. Berliner and Mr. A limited edition of something nobody wants its worthless. Taking its cue from the fashion industry, the Swatch, as one commentator put it, "put an artist's palette on the face of a watch. Home Page World U.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} Buhl dispatches his employees in taxis, like so many flying monkeys in "The Wizard of Oz," to the Swatch counter at Bloomingdale's. It is a very good bet that by the time you read this, the 10, special Mother's Day "Veruschkas" scheduled to be sold at 50 stores in 20 cities in the United States today -- only watches per store -- will be history. I don't like to hurt people. An unknown number of people are making a living selling Swatches to unauthorized dealers, who in turn sell mostly to European tourists. But since , when a limited series by the late Keith Haring went into production, the company has become increasingly sophisticated at manipulating desire. Taking a cue from Andy Warhol's ideas on art as a commodity for mass consumption, Swatch created its first art piece, the Kiki Picasso, in The next year, the company invited Mr. Inspired by Afro-Catholic Brazilian culture, it was manufactured as a giveaway to sports, art and show-business people. They don't know anything about it. Berliner, the California collector, has hidden in department stores waiting for the lunch shift, so that the fill-in person at the Swatch counter will sell her a second watch. Exclusivity is powerful. Buhl among them -- have also reserved the new Swatch car, expected to be introduced sometime in the mid's. They say they are churning them out as fast as they can. Specials like the Velvet Underground swathed in white or black lace and Hocus Pocus which came in a blue pie tin and is read through a crystal sphere were packaging phenomena when issued in Europe. The higher prices and limited availability in Italy have kept the pair in business, they said, and they have made a fine art of eliciting the latest information at department store loading docks. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}The night before, like a human hyena cunningly circling, she stalked the store entrance closest to the Swatch counter. At the start, in , the Swatch represented a democratic design ideal. Before the museum exhibitions on mutant Swatches, the result of production errors. Members are entitled to members-only special Swatches and the latest product information. But its real genius was the marketing. The object of her desire was a limited-edition Swatch watch, the rooster-faced Chicchirichi, which was being issued only for Easter Chicchirichi being the Italian word for cock-a-doodle-doo. Then there are the fashionable smugglers who "go swatching. Hayek warns collectors. The trick is buying retail. The instant he hears about a "special" going on sale, Mr. Hayek said, they will probably be sold by lottery, which will probably create even more of a frenzy. Even Mother's Day is not safe. Reeves tried to explain. I keep telling everyone this. Hayek, Swatch's chairman, recalled last week in a telephone interview. Berliner lives in a constant state of dread, knowing that at a critical moment her sandal could get stuck in the escalator, slowing her down. Mangisch is in the process of organizing the first Swatch auction in the United States, to be held at the National Academy of Design in New York next month. This week the store displayed several Swatches no yet on the market. TimesMachine is an exclusive benefit for home delivery and digital subscribers. A division of SMH, an international conglomerate that also makes Tissot, Omega and other makes of watches, the Swatch was technologically innovative in reducing the number of components. A brief stroll down Fifth Avenue provides an education in what those involved in the Swatch underground call "the secondary market. Collectors' club members -- Ms. Before the Swatch Collectors of Swatch club. Potential future value is subtly hinted at in the design of the new Swatch-only store on Columbus Avenue, which has steel floors, display cases for "antique" Swatches and a sleek, museum-shop air. The company said it had taken steps to thwart such activities, in part by stepping up production by 40 percent. It was a cheap watch with welded parts that could be produced on a fully automated assembly line. But last week they weren't swatching, due to competition from airline personnel. As Gloria Teresi, who runs the watch department for Christie's Geneva observes, "the fact that there were artists involved made it slightly intellectual. So weird have things become that a friend of theirs bought a Swatch for her baby instead of a savings bond. Sold out. Hayek calls it "emotional mass production. Faber, the dealer and collector, said: "They say they want to stamp out speculating, but they're fueling the Swatch as a collectors' event.